New Orleans (August 2004)

The annual conference of the Academy of Management was this year held in New Orleans, Louisiana. This is the larger area.

I moved into the Radisson Hotel on Canal street and had a nice view from my window. But that was the only positive thing about the hotel...

This is the downtown; the red star indicates my hotel.

The "core" of New Orleans: Bourbon street. In daylight, it doesn't exactly make a good impression.

Despite the unbeatable "3 for 1" offers of the many bars that seem to be open 24/7

At night, however, everything changes like magic... Bourbon transforms itself into a strip of drinking guys and girls, choruses of "show your tits" and flying "beads", the famous plastic chains that girls get for conforming (and guys for showing their a**es)...

In the midst of so much sinning, one man felt obliged to hold up moral values; his huge white cross had showed words from the bible condemning earthly pleasures.

I didn't get paid for watching girls (or guys), so my first days here were full of conference sessions and discussion. However, I found some friends and whenever there was (or we took) a break, we discovered something new. Here the famous St. Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square. Not many tourists went inside, I guess there was more fun outside...

On the other side of Jackson Square, street artists entertain the masses and carriages wait for tourists who want to spend 10 bucks for a half-hour ride.

On evenings during the conference, large schools regularly sponsor receptions; Ohio State always picks particularly interesting venues. This year, they invited everybody to the Aquarium of the Americas on New Orleans' waterfront. It took us about an hour to find the food and drink - but this hour was well spent marveling at the wonders of the water world.

...

After the conference was over, a small group of PhD students went on an excursion to one of the old Southern Plantations - Oak Alley.

Sugar cane was the main crop here and some old machinery is still on exhibit. Everything is so sweet here :-)

The guided tour was quite expensive, but interesting. And we admired the guides for their resistance against the heat, especially in their old outfit... At some point we wondered if they had ventilators under their wide skirts... but we didn't dare to ask.

A popular game: "If you shoot me then I shoot you!"

A lonesome guard at the gravesite of the last owner of the plantation.

Sugar Cane.

The next planned stop was Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve, but we didn't really find the way there. After crossing the Mississippi twice, we decided to settle for some other piece of the swamp land... as long as we got to see some Alligators!

The park was not the most attractive one, but with some imagination, it looked pretty nice. Well, as long as one managed to overlook the ubiquitous traces of civilization, be it oil on the water...

...or the omnipresence of Coca Cola. From time to time crazy motorboat drivers swoooshed through the picture, without any consideration for the nature that they consumed. Sometimes I wish I had a weapon too...

From outer space or just a stick?

Beware of the French!

Just don't move, please!

Zoom out again and you see the context: a concrete wall and the wooden path on which we were allowed to walk to see the water from time to time.

Zoom in again.

Hm, what is he thinking?

Back in town. It took me only 10 minutes from the hotel to the major conference hotels (Marriot, Sheraton), but I had to cross an invisible border. On one side the French Quarter with its tourists and conference participants, on the other the real New Orleans

I had just returned from a trip to Switzerland, a very different feeling. But it didn't take me long to adjust and to feel "at home".

Evening at the Mississippi river.

Steamboat "Natchez", one of the most touristy things to do in New Orleans. But nice to look at.

I saved my money and took the free ferry to Algiers... a short ride, but nice and romantic. Despite the fact that New Orleans' skyline isn't exactly impressive.

The three unique towers of St. Louis Cathedral are perhaps the only memorable part of the picture...

My breakfast place - the local McDonald's. I usually felt somewhat overdressed, but it was cheap and a nice place for observations. At the Chinese next door, I once had to endure the persistent and very public approaches of a beggar, and I didn't even know if I should be angry at him or someone/-thing else...

Together with a new-found friend from the University of Michigan, I went on a little discovery tour, including St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. New Orleans' graveyards are very famous because of the particular graves - due to the high water level, the dead are buried above the ground. The bigger buildings are sponsored by societies, and the members get to move into one of the "drawers" when they die. But not for long, then the next guy gets the space. These graves are also called "ovens", for obvious reasons: New Orleans gets temperatures above 100 degree Fahrenheit in summer. We were lucky; due to an approaching hurricane (Charlie in Florida), it was relatively cool during the conference.

Most of New Orleans is not exactly picturesque.

A big sign at the entrance to the "Treme" quarter read "Only for residents and invited guests". On the map in my guidebook the whole quarter is just one white spot - it seems that this is not supposed to be a touristy place...

Quite different the Garden District. This famous area with beautiful mansions and gardens can be reached with the old streetcar.

I got off at Loyola University, a Christian School. Right behind it is Tulane University.

The Audubon Park stretches south of the university area and has a quite nice zoo.

I came an hour before closing time, so I had to rush through, but the veterinaries working on the elephant deserved some special attention.

These guys probably see everything much better...

Since we hadn't seen any Alligators on our tour along the Mississippi, I was eager to see them here in the zoo... So I went to the Louisiana Swamp Exhibit....

Cute! But not dangerous enough...

Finally. But he looked pretty lazy... And to be honest, it is not really exciting to see an alligator in a small water basin surrounded by concrete walls and fences... So if you ever want to see them in their natural environment: go to the Everglades (or check out my pictures)

Look at this funny guy - a sloth.

See and be seen...

The Audubon park is a popular jogging area - in the background the chapel of Loyola University.

I took the streetcar back to downtwon...

Joggers especially like to use the tracks of the streetcar - sometimes that looks pretty dangerous.

Several times I saw kids collecting money for some good cause. Either by selling M&M peanuts, or just with their big smiles.

The monument on Lee Circle signals the beginning of Downtown.

A closer look reveals some rather nice buildings...

I spent a considerable part of my last night at Harrah's Casino. I had never been to a real casino before, so that was a very interesting experience. The air was filled with the sounds of slot machines and endless rows of colorful screens nearly made an artistic impression. More interesting, however, are the real games on tables, such as Black Jack and Roulette. And it is amazing how fast people lose hundreds of dollars. One women next to me started a conversation and asked me what number to bet on - I said I didn't want to lose her money. She replied "easy come easy gone". So I lost her money. (picture borrowed from http://doors.stanford.edu/~sr/new-orleans-2003/)

But of course a night in New Orleans is no night without Bourbon Street (regardless which day of the week)... so I stopped by again...

Guys waiting for girls to show skin...

Girls showing skin.

Normally, beads are only given in exchange for something to see - here, however, a bar used them as a teaser for people who didn't want to strip... how unfair!

On my last day, I decided to check out the City Park. Baaaad decision. But here I was. This huge hot boring and dangerous golf course was the better part.

Before that, I strayed in spookey areas and tried to ignore the cars that passed by on the gravel road and honked at me. And I did not stop at this beautiful picknick-site. Well, maybe just because I didn't have food anyway.

And here was the reward for two hours of walking: the "Lakeview" at the Lake Pontchartrain, which forms the northern border of New Orleans.

But at least I was safe and found a bus to bring me back downtown. On the way I stopped by another cemetery, again with interesting grave sites.

My flight left at 5, so I just had enough time to end on a positive note: in the French Quarter. I got a Muffaletta, a special sandwich that was born here in New Orleans. It is a round, seeded loaf of bread with ham, salami, provolone, and olive relish. While waiting for the food, I could watch this mysterious red crowd of people in one of the streets...

Even more mysterious is Voodoo; and it is a big business here in New Orleans. There are several stores that sell everything from Voodoo dolls to Catholic candles and alligator feet.

A last look at something French before I rushed to the airport and flew back to Durham.

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